Last modified on 29 March 2013, at 16:37

Cloaks (Men)


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Types of Cloaks

Rectangular

Art
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Literature
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Archaeology
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Discussion
Cloaks seem to normally have been made from simple rectangles. Sizes varied with cloaks reaching from the waist to the back of the calves [OWEN-CROCKER 2004]. 2.5x1.5m (8’ x 5.5’) decorated with tablet woven bands or tassels [EWING 2007: p.71]

Folded

A double sized unlined rectangular cloak worn folded in double to create a smaller double lined cloak.
Art
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Literature
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Archaeology
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Discussion
‘The old English phrase mid twifealdum is a glossing Latin of diploid (‘a double garment’), which suggests that the mentel could be double, either in the sense that they were sometimes lined, or that these names were applied to a type of luxurious cloak which was so large that it was folded double, lengthwise, round the body before being secured by its brooch at the shoulder, like the ancient cloaks’ [OWEN-CROCKER 2004: p.238]
In other words they may have still been wearing the fold over cloak that was popular 500 years previously.

Shaped

A tailored cloak cut in a semi-circular pattern to make the cloak more comfortable to wear and to hang better.
Art

  • Hexatuch
  • Bayeux

Literature
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Archaeology
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Discussion
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Hooded Cloak or Gaelic Coat

Either an open cloak with an attached hood or alternatively a poncho style of garment with an attached hood (Gaelic coat).
Art

  • Frank’s Casket
  • Harley Psalter

Literature

  • Al-Udhri, a Spanish Muslim Geographer in 1083AD states that the Irish, or possibly the Icelanders, like to wear expensive clothing, particularly hooded cloaks. [OWEN-CROCKER 2004: p.266]. We know about this account due to Qazwini quoting parts of Al-Udhri in his C13th work. [WAITE 2000: p.310].

Archaeology
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Discussion
Oxen-Crocker comments that the hooded-cloak may have been in use ‘for a long time’ by the Anglo-Saxons. She draws attention to images of beggars on the Harley psalter which appear to wear some sort of hooded garment. [OWEN-CROCKER 2004: p.264]

Variations

Leather or fur cloaks

Cloaks made from animal skins.
Art
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Literature
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Archaeology

  • Denmark [OWEN-CROCKER 1998::p.27], bogs from Hald

Discussion
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Fur or piled wool lining

Cloaks lined or edged with animal fur or piled wool.

Edged in a different colour

Edged with tassels or fringes

A style of cloak edged with tablet weave bands where the threads that make up the <><> are left untrimmed to create a fringe.

  • Evebø, Norway,C5th. Body wrapped in an elaborate lightweight rectangular cloak with fringed edges [PRIEST-DORMAN 1993]
  • Thorsbjerg, Denmark, C2nd to C5th. [EWING 2007: p.71]
  • Vehenmoor, Germany,

[OWEN-CROCKER 2004: p.108] Cloaks of this type would have to have been made on a Vertical loom?

Different coloured linings

Owen-Crocker comments on a possible silk lining for St Cuthberts garment and that, ‘there may be a survival of a lined garment in the piece of red dyed, diamond-patterned twill, worsted cloth, from York which was associated with a coarse, plain weave textile, that had perhaps provided a warm lining to the worsted garment.’ Owen-Crocker Page 237 If these were possibly cloak linings then it would be likely that they would have been of a different colour to the outer thicker layer.

Cloak Ribbons

There seems to be only limited evidence for this and only worn by European Kings, Lothar I (850AD), King Cnut 1031AD and King Wiliam (1070AD).


Ways of Wearing the Cloak

Pinned at the shoulder

The grave evidence suggests that cloaks were generally pinned on the right shoulder, so leaving the right arm free [GRAHAM-CAMPBELL 1980: p.30].
This is largely supported by illustrated manuscripts. Exceptions to pinning at the shoulder are discussed below.

Pinned at the chest

A few Anglo-Saxon manuscripts depict men with cloaks pinned at the chest. Examples include xxxx xxxx xxx

Pinned at the hip

Some graves have pennanulars and pins found at the right hip. These have also been interpreted as holding closed Warrior Coats.


References

<nocite> EWING2007 GRAHAM-CAMPBELL1980 OWEN-CROCKER2004 PRIEST-DORMAN1993 WAITE2000 </nocite> <biblio force=false>#Template:Bib</biblio>