Changes
{{Stars2|Category=Textiles}}{{Textiles}}
==Tabby==
*York, Lloyds Bank: 9 textiles of tabby weave were found. 8 were woollen and one was silk. [HEDGES 1982: p.102]
*York, Coppergate 5: Only one piece of silk was of plain tabby weave. [HEDGES 1982: p. 125]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): 62 fragments of tabby were found.9 had z-spun threads in both warp and weft the other 53 had tight z-spun threads in the warp and loose woven s-threads in the weft. [HUNDT 1981: p.4] 9 fragments had different natural coloured threads in the warp and weft [HUNDT 1981: p. 7]( Walton-Rogers reports incorrectly that 162 examples of tabby were found at Elisenhof [WALTON 1989:p.?])
*Birka, Sweden: 17 of the 89 wool fragments described by Geijer were of a tabby weave. And all of the 11 linen fragments described were also tabbies. One of the linen fragments was blue and white checked. [GEIJER 1938: p.14, 21, 35]
*Scar, Orkney: A piece of tabby woven cloth was found mineralised to the weaving batton in the female grave. [OWEN and DALLAND 1999:p. 93]
|Discussion
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*Kildonan, Isle of Eigg: Wool and linen was found in 2/2 twill. [HENSHALL 1952: p. 15]
* Greenigoe, Orkney: three fragments of 2/2 twill, two were loosely woven the third was sewn to a piece of tabby weave.[HENSHALL 1952: p. 17]
*Birka, Sweden: 10 of the 89 wool fragments described by Geijer were of a plain 2/2 twill. One further fragament was of a 2/2 twill but the pattern was offset, making it a hybrid type weave between a plain and a diamond twill [GEIJER 1938: p.21, 38]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): The plain 2/2 twill was the most common weave found at Elisenhof with 142 examples. [HUNDT 1981: p.11]<br> 6 fragments had z-spun threads in both warp and weft. 5 were probably dyed, of these 2 had different natutral coloured warp and weft prior to dyeing. 7 had different natural coloured threads in warp and weft. One example (E-76) had black stripes of different widths in warp and weft giving it a "scottish" look. The other threads were brown. [HUNDT 1981:p.15]
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|Discussion
*Birka, Sweden: 2 of the 89 wool fragments described by Geijer were a plain 2/1 twill. [GEIJER 1938: p.21, 38]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): Only 2 fragemts fragmets were of 2/1 twill, one had a black warp and brown weft [HUNDT 1981: p.11] *Scar, Orkney: Small bits of a 2/1 twill were found on the box in the woman's grave. [OWEN and DALLAND 1999:p.99]
*York, Lloyds Bank: 8 fragments were of a 2/1 diamond twill. And 6 were of 2/2 diamond twill. [HEDGES 1982: p. 106 & 112]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC):184 examples of diamond weave were found. 8 had z-spun threads in both the warp and the weft, the other 176 had tight z-spun threads in the warp and loose spun s-threads in the weft. 8 of the fragments had different natural coloured threads in the warp and weft. [HUNDT 1981: p.25]
|Discussion
* York, Coppergate: 6 cases of herringbone weave wool were found. One fragment was small and may have been from a diamond weave. In five of these the pattern is in the warp rather than in the weft. One was dyed lichen purple and another was dyed with woad. Another fragment had a dark warp and a light weft, which makes the herringbone pattern very visible. [WALTON 1989: p.324]
*York, Lloyds Bank: One fragment of 2/1 chevron twill was found, and one of 2/2 chevron twill. [HEDGES 1982: p.106 & 112]
* London, Milk Street and Watling Court (late C9th - early C12th): Six examples of herringbone weave were found. Two were dyed with lichen purplel, one with woad and one possibly with both lichen and woad. [PRITCHARD 1984:p.53]
*YorkElisenhof, Lloyds BankGermany (8thC): One fragment 2 examples of 2/1 chevron twill was were found, both were leg bindings. [HUNDT 1981:p.15]** 4 examples of 2/2 chevrons were found, all were warp chevrons. Only 1 example was non-accidental, the other 3 occuring in the same piece of textile as either herringbone or a diamond twill. In 2 fragments (possibly from the same piece of cloth) the chevron and herringbone alternated forming a kind of striped pattern. In the other fragment there was one strip of chevron at the edge of a diamond twill.[HUNDT 1981: p.16]**125 examples of 2/2 chevron herringbone twillwere found. 1 of these had z-spun threads in both the warp and the weft. 7 look like they may have been dyed, though they have not been analysed. 5 fragments show differnt natural colours in the warp and weft, mostly a black warp and a light brown weft. [HEDGES 1982HUNDT 1981: p.106 & 11219f.]
|Archaeology=
*York, Coppergate: One example (Fragment 1304) of a Kreuzkoper was found. [WALTON 1989: p.329]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): Two examples of Kreuzkoper were found. [HUNDT 1981: p.22]
|Discussion
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==Panama and half Panama==
The Panama weave is a variation on a tabby weave where the warp and the weft consist of two threads rather than one. In the half panama only the warp or the weft has a double thread, the other only having one thread. It generally appears in the selvedge rather than the entire cloth being of thise weave.
{{Evidence
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|Literature
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*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): 3 examples of a panama weave were found, all were probably form the selvedge of the fabric rahter than the entire fabric being of this weave. One of them was on the edge of a twill. [HUNDT 1981: p.8]
** One example of a half panama was also found where every second warp is double [HUNDT 1981: p. 8]
*Skjoldehamn, Norway: The selvedge of the blanket that was wrapped around the body had a panama weave. [LOVLID 2009: p.139]
|Discussion
|Literature
|Archaeology=*Hedeby Harbour: 20 pieces of felt were found. One was the [[Felt animal masks|facemask]], the others could not be identified as particular items. Some of the felt fragments consisted of two destinct layers one of light wool the other of dark wool. Hagg thinks the original item may have had a pattern cut into the top layer to make a pattern of light and dark wool. [HAGG 1984: p.96]Hagg says the felt came in two types: 1, a thin but dense felt ideal for caps/hats. 2, a thicker but looser felt ideal for saddle pads.[HAGG 1984: p.195]
*Hedeby Settlement: 8 fragments of felt were found in the settlement. Hagg suggests that the production of felt may have taken place in Hedeby. The felt was secondarily used as tar brushes and to caulk the ships. [HAGG 1991: p.99-104]
|Discussion
|Archaeology=
*Kildonan, Isle of Eigg: A piece of plain weave,piled piece of wool was found. [HENSHALL 1952: p. 15]
*York, Coppergate: two of the tabby wools were piled. [WALTON 1989: p.319]
* York, Lloyds Bank: Two fragments were piled, both after the weaving process. In one case the baser fabric was a plain tabby in the other it was a 2/2 diamond twill. [HEDGES 1982: p.113]*Isle of Man, Cronk Moar. Remains of a cloak made from a woolen cloth with wool piles sown through it. [BERSU and WILSON 1966:p.82]*Denmark, Mammen. Edging of a warrior coat. Dyed pink? *Denmark, Hedeby. A hat. Coat edging.<gallery>IOM-Cronk Moar Cloak a.jpg|Isle of Man, Cronk Moar</gallery>|Discussion=Earlier examples have been found at Sutton Hoo and Valsgarde [BERSU and WILSON 1966:p.83]
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==Reference==
{{Ref|Bersu & Wilson 1966}}
{{Ref|Geijer 1938}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1984}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1991}}
{{Ref|Hedges 1982}}
{{Ref|Henshall 1952}}
{{Ref|Hundt 1981}}
{{Ref|Lovlid 2009}}
{{Ref|Owen & Dalland 1999}}
{{Ref|Pritchard 1984}}
{{Ref|Walton 1989}}
<HarvardReferences />
