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Cloth Weaving Patterns

2,187 bytes added, 13:34, 7 January 2017
{{Stars2|Category=Textiles}}{{Textiles}}
==Tabby==
*York, Lloyds Bank: 9 textiles of tabby weave were found. 8 were woollen and one was silk. [HEDGES 1982: p.102]
*York, Coppergate 5: Only one piece of silk was of plain tabby weave. [HEDGES 1982: p. 125]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): 62 fragments of tabby were found.9 had z-spun threads in both warp and weft the other 53 had tight z-spun threads in the warp and loose woven s-threads in the weft. [HUNDT 1981: p.4] 9 fragments had different natural coloured threads in the warp and weft [HUNDT 1981: p. 7] ( Walton-Rogers reports incorrectly that 162 examples of tabby were found at Elisenhof [WALTON 1989:p.?])
*Birka, Sweden: 17 of the 89 wool fragments described by Geijer were of a tabby weave. And all of the 11 linen fragments described were also tabbies. One of the linen fragments was blue and white checked. [GEIJER 1938: p.14, 21, 35]
*Scar, Orkney: A piece of tabby woven cloth was found mineralised to the weaving batton in the female grave. [OWEN and DALLAND 1999:p. 93]
|Discussion
|Archaeology=
*Kildonan, Isle of Eigg: Wool and linen was found in 2/2 twill. [HENSHALL 1952: p. 15]
* Greenigoe, Orkney: three fragments of 2/2 twill, two were loosely woven the third was sewn to a piece of tabby weave.[HENSHALL 1952: p. 17]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): Only 2 fragmets were of 2/1 twill, one had a black warp and brown weft [HUNDT 1981: p.11]
 
*Scar, Orkney: Small bits of a 2/1 twill were found on the box in the woman's grave. [OWEN and DALLAND 1999:p.99]
*York, Lloyds Bank: 8 fragments were of a 2/1 diamond twill. And 6 were of 2/2 diamond twill. [HEDGES 1982: p. 106 & 112]
 
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC):184 examples of diamond weave were found. 8 had z-spun threads in both the warp and the weft, the other 176 had tight z-spun threads in the warp and loose spun s-threads in the weft. 8 of the fragments had different natural coloured threads in the warp and weft. [HUNDT 1981: p.25]
|Discussion
|Archaeology=
*York, Coppergate: One example (Fragment 1304) of a Kreuzkoper was found. [WALTON 1989: p.329]
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): Two examples of Kreuzkoper were found. [HUNDT 1981: p.22]
|Discussion
==Panama and half Panama==
The Panama weave is a variation on a tabby weave where the warp and the weft consist of two threads rather than one. In the half panama only the warp or the weft has a double thread, the other only having one thread. It generally appears in the selvedge rather than the entire cloth being of thise weave.
{{Evidence
|Archaeology=
*Elisenhof, Germany (8thC): 3 examples of a panama weave were found, all were probably form the slevedge selvedge of the fabric rahter than the entire fabric being of this weave. One of them was on the edge of a twill. [HUNDT 1981: p.8]
** One example of a half panama was also found where every second warp is double [HUNDT 1981: p. 8]
 
*Skjoldehamn, Norway: The selvedge of the blanket that was wrapped around the body had a panama weave. [LOVLID 2009: p.139]
|Discussion
|Literature
|Archaeology=*Hedeby Harbour: 20 pieces of felt were found. One was the [[Felt animal masks|facemask]], the others could not be identified as particular items. Some of the felt fragments consisted of two destinct layers one of light wool the other of dark wool. Hagg thinks the original item may have had a pattern cut into the top layer to make a pattern of light and dark wool. [HAGG 1984: p.96]Hagg says the felt came in two types: 1, a thin but dense felt ideal for caps/hats. 2, a thicker but looser felt ideal for saddle pads.[HAGG 1984: p.195]
*Hedeby Settlement: 8 fragments of felt were found in the settlement. Hagg suggests that the production of felt may have taken place in Hedeby. The felt was secondarily used as tar brushes and to caulk the ships. [HAGG 1991: p.99-104]
|Discussion
|Archaeology=
*Kildonan, Isle of Eigg: A piece of plain weave,piled piece of wool was found. [HENSHALL 1952: p. 15]
*York, Coppergate: two of the tabby wools were piled. [WALTON 1989: p.319]
* York, Lloyds Bank: Two fragments were piled, both after the weaving process. In one case the baser fabric was a plain tabby in the other it was a 2/2 diamond twill. [HEDGES 1982: p.113]*Isle of Man, Cronk Moar. Remains of a cloak made from a woolen cloth with wool piles sown through it. [BERSU and WILSON 1966:p.82]*Denmark, Mammen. Edging of a warrior coat. Dyed pink? *Denmark, Hedeby. A hat. Coat edging.<gallery>IOM-Cronk Moar Cloak a.jpg|Isle of Man, Cronk Moar</gallery>|Discussion=Earlier examples have been found at Sutton Hoo and Valsgarde [BERSU and WILSON 1966:p.83]
}}
==Reference==
{{Ref|Bersu & Wilson 1966}}
{{Ref|Geijer 1938}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1984}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1991}}
{{Ref|Hedges 1982}}
{{Ref|Henshall 1952}}
{{Ref|Hundt 1981}}
{{Ref|Lovlid 2009}}
{{Ref|Owen & Dalland 1999}}
{{Ref|Pritchard 1984}}
{{Ref|Walton 1989}}
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HAGG1984
HAGG1991
HENSHALL1952
HUNDT1981
LOVLID2009
PRITCHARD1984
WALTON1989
HEDGES1982
GEIJER1938
 
 
 
</nocite>
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<HarvardReferences />
[[Category:Textile Weaving]]