Changes

Coats (Men)

3,652 bytes added, 08:57, 7 January 2018
{{Stars1Stars2|Category = Men's Clothing}}
===Wrap around coat(Warrior Coat)===
{{Evidence
|Art=
:'''Pre Viking Age''':* Sutton Hoo helmet plates600-625AD?:* Vendel Helmet plates600-750AD?:* Guldgubber550-800AD
|Literature
|Archaeology=
 
*Hedeby Harbour, Germany (9th-11th C): Multiple fragments were found that Hagg interprets to be from wrap around coats (Klappenrock).<br>
: Fragment 11: This fragment is of natural brown 2/2 twill and forms the bottom part of the right, front flap of a wrap around coat. On the reverse of the fragment there are remnants of the lining, made up from three different bits of cloth of differing weave and colour, and was probably made from parts of old, discarded clothing.[HAGG 1984:p.73]<br>: Fragment 76: This is another fragment from the front of a coat similar to Frag. 11. Small particles of copper alloy were found in one area of the coat, probably from a belt. Hagg thinks this fragment may have been the lining of a coat. [HAGG 1984:p.83]<br>*Mammen *Taplow: Fragment 19: This is a smaller fragment probably from the edge of the coat with an edge of piled fabric with long tuffts (2-3cm). [HAGG 1984:p.76]<br>: Fragment45A-B:*Birka, Sweden: Graves where a ring pin or brooch was Ring pins were found at the right hip could be from fastening a in four graves (BJ 1057, 471, 750, 643) In grave 976 the pin was at the left hip. Though whether these fastned wrap around coats, cloaks or anothe garment is unknown. [THUNMARK-NYLEN 1984:p.11]<br>:'''Pre Viking Age''':*England, Taplow. :*England, Castledyke. Grave 126. Strip of tablet weave running vertically. Identified by Penelope Walton Rogers as a wrap-over coat.[OWEN-CROCKER 2004:p.181]:*Germany, Cologne, Severinus. 'Minstrel's Grave' [OWEN-CROCKER 2004:p.181]
|Discussion
<br>
  ===Buttoned Coat / (Kaftan)===
{{Evidence
|Art=* Isle of Man, Jurby. Odin Stone 125(98). * Sweden (Skane). Hunnestad Monument DR282.<gallery>K41.jpg | Odin Stone (Cumming 1857)Hunnestad Monument.jpg | Hunnestad Monument (Worm 1643)</gallery>
|Literature
|Archaeology=
* Ireland, Dunmore Cave. Fragments of patterned silk and 16 button-like silver objects in 3 different sizes. [EWING 2007:p.109]. Ewing points out that these objects may have been purely ornamental * Birka, Sweden: 5 graves (BJ 716, 752, 944, 985, 1074) contained buttons from a kaftan style coat. The buttons are of copper alloy, except for BJ 985 where they are lead. The buttons run from the neck to the waist, and not further[HAGG 1986:p.68]. In three two of the graves (BJ 716, 752, 1074) the coat was worn with a studed studded belt of eastern type. [HAGG1986JANSSON 1986: p.6892] A third grave (BJ 752) was also found with a buckle.<br>:BJ 716, 8 copper alloy buttons, studded belt, penannular, bag. [Jansson1986http: p//mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/kontext.asp?kid=914 Online]<br>:BJ 752, 10 copper alloy buttons, buckle from a belt<br>:BJ 944, 7 copper alloy buttons, weapon knife and sheath, comb, shield, sword and scabbard, penannular, etc [http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/kontext.asp?kid=1128 Online]<br>:BJ 985, 4 lead buttons, thor's hammer ring, spear, shield, knofe, comb, etc [http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/kontext.asp?kid=1170&zone= Online]<br>:BJ 1074, 18 copper alloy buttons, studded belt, spear, knife, comb, etc [http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/kontext. 78asp?kid=575&zone= Online]<br>
|Discussion
<br>
 
===Body Warmmer (Thorax)===
''A waist length wrap around garment or fur or wool with either short or no sleeves''<br>
 
{{evidence
|Art=
* Louis the Pious (AD826) [EWING 2007: p.115]
* Fuller brooch (late C9th)
 
|Literature =
* Einhard: Life of Charlemagne (c.AD829-836) in winter by a close-fitting coat of otter or marten skins. [OWEN-CROCKER 2004:p.174] [EWING 2007:110-112]
* Ólpa, stakkr, kufl: Norse for clothing made out of shaggy felt or fur [HAGG 1984: p.186].
 
|Archaeology =
* Hedeby, Denmark (late C10th – early C11th) 9 fragments of heavy fluffy woollen (5mm thick) body warmers [HAGG 1984: p.183-185] cut to wrap around the front of the body and to reach to just below the waist. One of the Hedeby finds had a trace of bronze near the bottom corner probably from a bronze pin [EWING 2007: p.111]
* Cumwhitton, England (AD900-950) A possible sealskin thorax [PATERSON 2014:p.76]
 
|Discussion =
Geijer translates Einhard’s description as a ‘waist coat’ [GEIJER 1938: p.148]<br>
Hagg puts forward a theory that the woollen finds from Hedeby would have been worn by normal people as an affordable version of the fur body warmers worn by the rich [HAGG 1984: p.183-185]<br>
Ewing describes Einhard’s garment as “this garment covered just the chest and shoulders; the kings thorax is of otters kin or ermine and he wears it for warmth” [EWING 2007: p.110-111]<br>
}}
<br>
 
==Reference==
{{Ref|Ewing 2007}}
{{Ref|Geijer 1938}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1984}}
{{Ref|Hagg 1986}}
{{Ref|Jansson 1986}}
{{Ref|Owen-Crocker 2004}}
{{Ref|Paterson 2014}}
{{Ref|Thunmark-Nylen 1984}}
<HarvardReferences />
[[Category:Men's Clothing]]