Difference between revisions of "Coats (Men)"

Revision as of 14:41, 26 March 2013

This article's completion rating is 2 out of 5. Article structure and content is subject to change as data is still being collected.

This article's completion rating is 2 out of 5. Article structure and content is subject to change as data is still being collected.

Wrap around coat

Art

• Sutton Hoo helmet plates
• Vendel Helmet plates
• Guldgubber

Literature
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Archaeology

• Hedeby Harbour, Germany (9th-11th C): Multiple fragments were found that Hagg interprets to be from wrap around coats (Klappenrock).
  

Fragment 11: This fragment is of natural brown 2/2 twill and forms the bottom part of the right, front flap of a wrap around coat. On the reverse of the fragment there are remnants of the lining, made up from three different bits of cloth of differing weave and colour, and was probably made from parts of old, discarded clothing. [HAGG 1984:p.73]

Fragment 76: This is another fragment from the front of a coat similar to Frag. 11. Small particles of copper alloy were found in one area of the coat, probably from a belt. Hagg thinks this fragment may have been the lining of a coat. [HAGG 1984:p.83]

Fragment 19: This is a smaller fragment probably from the edge of the coat with an edge of piled fabric with long tuffts (2-3cm). [HAGG 1984:p.76]

Fragment45A-B:

• Mammen

• Taplow

• Birka, Sweden: Ring pins were found at the right hip in four graves (BJ 1057, 471, 750, 643) In grave 976 the pin was at the left hip. Though whether these fastned wrap around coats, cloaks or anothe garment is unknown. [THUNMARK-NYLEN 1984:p.11]

Discussion
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Buttoned Coat / Kaftan

Art
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Literature
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Archaeology

• Birka, Sweden: 5 graves (BJ 716, 752, 944, 985, 1074) contained buttons from a kaftan style coat. The buttons are of copper alloy, except for BJ 985 where they are lead. The buttons run from the neck to the waist, and not further [HAGG 1986:p.68]. In two of the graves (BJ 716, 1074) the coat was worn with a studed belt of eastern type. [JANSSON 1986:p.92]

Discussion
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Body Warmmer (Thorax)

A waist length wrap around garment or fur or wool with either short or no sleeves Art

• Louis the Pious (826AD) (EWING 2007, p.115)
• Fuller brooch (late C9th)

Literature

• Einhard: Life of Charlemagne (c.829-836AD) in winter by a close-fitting coat of otter or marten skins.
• Ólpa, stakkr, kufl: Norse for clothing made out of shaggy felt or fur (HAGG 1984, p.186).

Archaeology

• Hedeby, Denmark (late C10th – early C11th) 9 fragments of heavy fluffy woollen (5mm thick) body warmers (HAGG 1984, p.183-185) cut to wrap around the front of the body and to reach to just below the waist. One of the Hedeby finds had a trace of bronze near the bottom corner probably from a bronze pin (EWING 2007, p.111)

Discussion
Geijer translates Einhard’s description as a ‘waist coat’ (GEIJER 1938, p.148)
Hagg puts forward a theory that the woollen finds from Hedeby would have been worn by normal people as an affordable version of the fur body warmers worn by the rich (HAGG 1984, p.183-185)
Ewing describes Einhard’s garment as “this garment covered just the chest and shoulders; the kings thorax is of otters kin or ermine and he wears it for warmth” (EWING 2007, p.110-111)

Reference

<nocite> HAGG1984 HAGG1986 JANSSON1986 THUNMARK-NYLEN1984 </nocite> <biblio force=false>#Template:Bib</biblio>