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Square Neck Tunics

No change in size, 13:30, 14 March 2013
Whatever their origin, square neck holed tunics are a regular sight in 11th century English illustrated manuscripts. They are seen being worn by both kings and labourers and seem to convey no indication of social rank [OWEN-CROCKER 2004:p.247-248].<br>
In fact a tentative argument could be made that all of the illustrations from the 11th century that show a faced neck hole are actually trying to depict a square neck. As with any statement like this there is always some images for which this is not true. Two English sources seem to contradict this theory. The first is the unusually large round necked facings adorning the neck holes depicted in the Hereford Troper c.1050AD (British Library MS Cotton Caligula A XIV). A similar shaped neck hole to that seen in the Hereford Troper can be seen on the seated figure in fig.7. This manuscript can however be dismissed as showing typical English garb as it appears that the artist has copied Romanesque models from German and Flemish art [BROWN 2007:p.133]. If this is indeed the case then the garments would be more likely to be seen in main land Europe where the Ottonian fashion had more in common with that of Byzantium [MAYER-HARTING 1999:p.210]. The other image source is the Bayeux Tapestry, dated to c.1076AD. This seems to show a similar style of neck hole facing as that seen in the Hereford Troper with the facing being depicted around a round neck hole and sometimes flaring out wider over the shoulders. In fact what we may be seeing here is the introduction of a European proto-Romanesque fashion. Some authors argue that the Bayeux Tapestry may even be a Norman creation [GRAPE 19971994:p.54] and if this is indeed the case then its ability to accurately represent English fashion of the time could be suspect. <br>
It is interesting to note that as yet I have not managed to find an image showing a square neck hole in any Carolingian or Ottonian manuscript. Also the only neck hole identified on the clothing fragments recovered from Hedeby, originally part of Denmark, was determined to be round [HAGG 1984:p.50]. This does lead to the possibility of square necked garments being, if anything, very English. <br>
FLEMING2007
GRAHAM-CAMPBELL1998
GRAPE1997GRAPE1994
HAGG1984
LOVLID2009