Veils and Wimples
| Veils and Wimples |
|---|
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Large head cloth (Palla)
The palla is a rectangle of cloth about 3m x 1.5m in size. In roman times it was worn either wrapped over the shoulder or draped over the head. Only the later draped style is depicted worn by the late Saxons.
Art
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Literature
- Bede, Historia Ecclesiastica (731AD) refers to a girl who wears a linen headdress being miraculously cured (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.158)
Archaeology
- Winchester (850-900AD) extremely rich veil edged with gold braid (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.158)
Discussion
Walton Rogers discusses the use of the roman ‘pallium’ from the late Roman period to the 8th century [WALTON ROGERS 2007: p.176], She makes a theoretical argument for its use in England. She also shows images from the C8th Stuttgart psalter to support her argument.
In summary the word palla is preferred for this garment as pallium is now used as a male ecclesiastical garment and draped cloak implies the use of a heavy material.
…worn open at the throat and back on the head
| 800-899 | 900-979 | 980-1040 | 1041-1100 |
| Encouraged | Unacceptable | ||
Art
- Rothbury (early C9th) Woman with open veil and visible hair. (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.159)
Literature
- Aldhelm DeVirginitate (c.700AD) refers to extravagant headdress that hang from a fillet to the ankle (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.136) He also condemns curled hair at the forehead that implies that the wimple was worn further back than latter head coverings (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.158).
Archaeology
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Discussion
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...worn closed at the neck with a brooch
| 800-899 | 900-979 | 980-1040 | 1041-1100 |
| Encouraged | Allowable | Unacceptable | |
Art
- BL MS Cotton Galba A XVIII - Aethelstan Psalter (before 939AD).
- Stuttgart Psalter, C8th (WALTON ROGERS 2007, p.176)
- Franks Casket, Early C8th
Literature
- Psychomachia (OWEN-CROCKER 2004, p.213)
Archaeology
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Discussion
Owen-Crocker describes this garment as a ‘symmetrical cloak which could be draped over the head and which was sometimes fastened by a central brooch.’ [OWEN-CROCKER 2004: p.212]. I prefer to use the term palla as this implies the use of a lighter cloth than that would usually have be used for a cloak.
Veil
A long strip of cloth that can either be worn on its own or under a separate wimple
| 800-899 | 900-979 | 980-1040 | 1041-1100 |
| Allowable | Encouraged | ||
Art
- T39:f.68v, The Nuns of Barking
- [T48:15v]
- [T51:18r]
- [T72:f32v]
- [T86:66v]
Literature
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Archaeology
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Discussion
AS artists occasionally depict full flamboyant veils, two good examples include Luna and Pride. Both show their veils “cascading in great, wind-swept arcs” around their heads. Veils are also used to add “rank or dignity” to images of Mary or of nuns [OWEN-CROCKER 2005: p.51].
In France the vale is often depicted hanging open at the neck but apart from the Harley Psalter and the Hexatech this is not the case in Anglo-Saxon art.
Before 950AD women seem to have worn only the veil or the palla. From this date onwards veils can still be seen on women but wimples are more common.
